2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Réserve des Célestins, Henri Bonneau
About Producer
A larger-than-life character who passed away in 2016, Henri Bonneau was the 12th generation of his family to make wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. His wines were produced predominantly from grenache (80-90%) with small quantities of mourvèdre, counoise and vaccarèse. The estate amounts to only 6ha, 5.25 of which are in La Crau and 0.75ha on stonier soil near Courthézon. Henri harvested late, didn’t destem the grapes, fermented in concrete vats, never used new oak barrels and bottled without filtration.
Varietals
Blend of grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault and terret noir. Réserve des Célestins is the domaine top-quality bottling, made only in the best vintages, after a 4- to 10-year elevage period. Bottled in 2010.
About Appellation
Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine tradition and history are inextricably entwined with the Avignon Papacy. Prior to the 14th century, vineyards were owned in the region by the bishops of Avignon, but mostly for local consumption produce. Things drastically changed following the decision of Pope Clement V, former Archbishop of Bordeaux, to move the papal court in 1309 to Avignon. Said to be great lovers of Burgundy wines, Clement V and his successor John XXII also did much to improve local viticultural practices to such an extent that wines from the area became known as 'Vin du Pape', under John XXII. The appellation currently covers around 3,150ha of vineyards spread over five distinct terroirs between the towns of Avignon and Orange. A total of thirteen grape varieties are allowed to be used in red and white wines, with grenache (black, grey and white) being the star player, and often syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault in supporting roles.
Tasting Notes
Alluring nose of black fruits, sandalwood, game meat, leather, sweet spices and forest floor, dense mouthfeel with unctuous texture, broad structure and remarkable depth, multilayered flavours of ripe black currant, fig, plum, kirsch, pâte de fruits, gingerbread, roasted chestnut, liquorice and garrigue herbs underpinned by an assertive mineral backbone, riveting acidity and resolved tannins leading onto an endlessly long finish. This is a multidimensional wine with majestic poise, lively energy and beguiling complexity. Somewhat grippy yet elegant and far removed from the dark, brooding monster of its youthful years, it’s a fascinating 19-year-old wine brimming with astonishing freshness and displaying both power and breed in perfect harmony. A phenomenal wine indeed. (03/2023)