2008 Champagne, Philipponnat, 1522 Grand Cru Extra-Brut
About Producer
The Philipponnat family first settled in 1522 in Aÿ when Apvril le Philipponnat owned vines at a place called ‘Le Léon’ between Aÿ and Dizy. The famed Clos des Goisses is a 5.5ha walled vineyard owned by Philipponnat since 1935. It’s the largest walled vineyard in Champagne and sits on the steepest, at an incline of up to 45°, south-facing slopes on chalky soil in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, overlooking River Marne. ‘Gois’ or ‘Goisse’ in local vernacular means a very steep slope. The cuvée Grand Cru 1522, with vines from Le Léon being the mainstay, commemorates the year that the family settled in Champagne. Since 1997, under the aegis of Charles Philipponnat, this house has made tremendous strides, and is now more than ever on top of its game.
Varietals
Blend of 58% pinot noir and 42% chardonnay from grand cru vineyards. Disgorged in March 2018, 4.5g/L dosage. Total production is 1,222 cases.
About Appellation
One of the first mentions of vines in the region was made by Saint Remigius, the Bishop of Reims who baptised the King of the Franks Clovis I in 496, who listed in his testament a vineyard in the suburb of Reims. Much has been written about the key roles of Dom Pierre Pérignon (1638-1715), a Benedictine monk at Hautvilliers Abbey, and Frère Jean Oudart (1654-1742), from Saint-Pierre-aux-Monts Abbey in Pierry, in the development of Champagne as we know today. In 1690, 'Champagne Wines' were first mentioned to designate sparkling wines of the region, and it was also the first time in France that a wine was identified as produce from a specific region. Today, the vineyards covers 34,300ha in four sub-regions, Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs and Côte des Bar. Within the three first sub-regions, there are 17 Grand Cru communes. While the main grape varieties are pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, four other varietals are also used in some blends, arbane, petit meslier, pinot blanc and pinot gris (known locally as fromenteau).
Tasting Notes
Fragrant nose of orchard fruits, citrus, brioche, almond and flint, refreshing and dense mouthfeel with creamy texture, excellent concentration and remarkable depth, multilayered flavours of white peach, apple, lemon peel, marzipan and hints of baking spices liberally laced with mineral undertones, racy acidity and refined bubbles carrying through a long, persistent finish. This is a superb champagne with composed poise, stunning precision and subtle complexity, striking a perfect balance between firm structure and delicate finesse. I am particularly thrilled by its bright energy and crisp nuttiness that add an exciting feel on the palate. (10/2021)