2004 Pomerol, Château l'Église-Clinet
About Producer
Among a handful of stars in Pomerol, I have an unreserved admiration for the late Denis Durantou (1957-2020) who took over in 1983 the reins of L’Église-Clinet, the family estate created by one of his forefathers in 1882. L’Église-Clinet is a 5.5ha estate on gravel, sand, clay and iron soils, with an average vine age of 45 years old and a tiny production of 15,000 bottles per year. Thanks to his unwavering commitment to quality, Denis Durantou single-handedly propelled his estate into the top flight of the appellation by producing quintessential wines of outstanding class and character, far removed from the overripe and noticeably oaky style that often attracts critical acclaim. His daughter Noémie has now taken up the task of perpetuating her father’s vision and legacy.
Varietals
Blend of 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc.
About Appellation
Pomerol has 792ha of vines sitting on a diverse range of gravel, sand and clay soil types. Vines were initially planted by the Romans and further expanded in the 12th century by the Knights Hospitallers of the Order of Saint-John of Jerusalem. Devastated during the Hundred Years' War and successive wars of religion, the vineyards were eventually reconstituted in the 15th and 16th centuries, when the Knight Hospitallers set up their first Commanderie in Libourne to welcome pilgrims travelling along the Way of Saint-James to Santiago de Compostela. Home to the top properties is a small plateau of 20ha at the eastern section of the appellation described as a 'boutonnière' (buttonhole) of blue clay, known as 'molasse', sitting on top of a band of sand and gravel rich in iron oxide, known as 'crasse de fer'. Merlot is the dominant grape variety, with cabernet franc playing a supporting role.
Tasting Notes
Enthralling nose of dark fruits, caramel, orange peel, tobacco, fresh leather and violet, supple mouthfeel with cashmere-like texture, ample volume and excellent precision, multilayered flavours of black cherry, crushed strawberry, blackcurrant preserve and plum liberally laced with hints of Christmas cake and truffle, vibrant acidity and resolved tannins carrying through a long, savoury finish. This is a sensational wine for the good but not exceptional 2004 vintage. Brimming with composed poise and controlled opulence, it’s stunningly full of life with mouthwatering freshness at 20 years old. Though lacking the complexity of the 2005, it has great depth, endearing intensity and plenty of underlying structure. Still incredibly young and not yet at its apogee, it will be just as good for several years to come. (03/2024)