1989 Saint-Julien, Château Lagrange
About Producer
During his visit to Bordeaux in 1787, Thomas Jefferson, then US envoy to France, ranked Lagrange in the 3rd group of his personal favourites, long before its official 3rd growth classification in 1855. Still, in the decades following WWII Lagrange was considered as an estate that did not live up to its cru classé ranking. Fortunayely, things changed for the better in 1983 following its acquisition by the Japanese Suntory Group and the appointment of Marcel Ducasse who ran the property until his retirement in 2007. A large-scale renovation programme was quickly rolled out to transform this property into a modern estate and a second label was created. With vines now over 35 years of age and much stricter selection, Lagrange has in recent vintages produced elegant and precise wines worthy of its 3rd cru classé status while remaining at brilliant value.
Varietals
Blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon and 45% merlot.
About Appellation
Sandwiched between Margaux and Pauillac, Saint-Julien AOC is home to 11 grands crus classés in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. The 910ha vineyards sit on a top layer of gravel on clay and limestone soil covered with large white stones ('galets'). While there are traces of vines planted here since the 8th century, extensive viticulture only started off in the 17th century when members of the local nobility and bourgeoisie created large vineyards. Like most of the Médoc, cabernet sauvignon reigns supreme, followed by merlot which plays an invariably supporting role. There are also lesser plantings of cabernet franc and petit verdot. The best estates have vines planted on gentle slopes along the Gironde estuary where terroir and micro-climate are the finest.
Tasting Notes
Fragrant nose of dark fruits, roasted meat, tobacco, leather, balsamic notes and forest floor, smooth mouthfeel with cashmere-like texture, excellent focus and good depth, multilayered flavours of black cherry, blackberry, black currant, raisin, game and umami intermingled with savoury mineral undertones, well-preserved acidity and resolved tannins carrying through a long, persistent finish. Having worn off the burly muscularity of its youth, this has morphed into a delightful wine with manifest drive, fine balance and no shortage of complexity. It’s pleasantly lush yet stunningly fresh at 35 years old. Though somewhat old style and short of the Saint-Julien charm in this vintage, this 1989 is the defining moment of Lagrange’s resurrection, trumpeting its return among the crus classés elite. I particularly love the rich core of fruit and lifted vigour that glide seamlessly on the palate to linger long throughout the aftertaste. In recent vintages, Lagrange has produced elegant and precise wines worthy of its 3rd cru classé status while remaining at brilliant value. (05/2024)